How Do You Stop a Cat Scratching the Furniture?
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The arm of the sofa is in ribbons and the scratching post you bought is standing untouched in the spare room. That is the standard picture, and it is almost always a placement problem rather than a training one. Your cat is not ignoring the post out of spite; it is in the wrong place and probably the wrong shape.
Scratching is not misbehaviour
Cats scratch to strip the worn outer layer from their claws, to stretch out their back and shoulders, and to leave a mark — both the visible scoring and scent from glands in their paws. It is normal, necessary behavior, and you are not going to train it out. The realistic goal is to move it somewhere you do not mind.
Location beats everything else
Cats scratch where they already spend time: next to where they sleep, by the door you come in through, beside the sofa they have claimed. A post tucked into a spare bedroom fails for that reason alone. Put it directly against the furniture being damaged, even though it looks silly, then shift it a few inches a week once it is in use.
Match the surface and the angle
Watch what your cat actually uses. If they work the vertical side of an armchair, they want a tall upright post; if they rake the carpet, they want a horizontal pad. Sisal is closer to what most cats choose than carpet is. Two details decide whether a post gets used: it must allow a full stretch, and it must be completely stable. One wobble and most cats never go back.
Make the furniture less rewarding
Cover the target with a throw, or put double-sided tape on the spot — cats dislike the texture. Reward every use of the post with a treat or a bit of play so the new spot pays better than the old one. Do not punish or use a spray bottle. Cats do not link it to the scratching, only to you, and an anxious cat usually scratches more.
Give them height as well as a post
A cat tree covers scratching and the thing cats want more of anyway: somewhere high to sit and watch the room. The 53-inch cat tree with condo and scratching posts gives a full-height stretch plus somewhere enclosed to sleep. In a multi-cat home, competition over perches drives a lot of tension, so a second structure like the 44-inch cat tree with hammock often beats one bigger tower. And if the real issue is a shy cat with nowhere of their own, a tunnel bed with a peekaboo cave addresses that — not scratching, but often the thing underneath it.
Claws, and one thing to rule out
Trimming the tips every few weeks limits the damage. Ask your vet or groomer to show you where the quick is first, and about nail caps if trimming is not enough. Declawing is amputation of the last bone of each toe rather than a nail trim; it is banned in a number of places and many vets decline to perform it. A sudden spike in scratching alongside hiding, spraying or a change in appetite is worth a vet visit — stress and pain both show up that way.